(Editor's Note: The original story by Kurt Forget ran in the Summer 2009 issue of RV but did not include details about the installation. Here is the entire process.)

Since this was going to be a permanent installation, I had to find a place that was out of the way, but easy to see. The best place was in front of the center console, on the lower dash, out of the way of the manual 4WD lever and the cigarette lighter. After checking behind the dash to ensure adequate clearance, I used the sheet metal screws and double-sided adhesive Transfer Flow provided to install the ram-mount for the monitor.

Per their instructions, I purchased a "Tapa Circuit" to power the monitor. I installed one utilizing the suggested ignition switched fuse and modified the fuse box cover to accommodate the wire. The instructions said to disconnect the battery first, which made it impossible to verify that you were using an ignition switched fuse. So I disconnected the battery after this connection has been tested.

Feeding the wiring harness up through the rubber grommet in the floorboard near the auto transmission shaft cable, I then connected it to the monitor and the fuse panel. I secured the wires up out of the way and made sure they would not interfere with any moving parts. As a precaution, I then removed the fuses from both the TRAX monitor and the Tapa-Circuit to protect the circuit during installation. Per the instructions, I routed the wiring harness down the driver's frame rail utilizing the OEM wire harness clamps and zip ties where appropriate. I also installed the ground to the frame as instructed.

I waited to install the T-connector into the rear vent line until the tank was completely installed, because I needed every bit of the fuel line to curve around one of the mounting plates for the gooseneck hitch that was already in the truck. I really liked the idea of tapping into the vent line versus the actual fuel line. I can proudly say that during the installation, not a single drop of diesel hit the floor of the shop. With Transfer Flow's well thought out system, it was very easy to do.

With the fuel lines and wiring harness in place, we tested the tank fitment clearance with the brackets in position and to see if there were any other potential problems. I used two securely positioned floor jacks to make it easier. For this particular application, the rear of the tank had to be elevated first in order to secure two horizontal placement pins in the proper location, then the front had to be raised into place. That would have been very difficult with only one floor jack, especially since the tank was so heavy, and you are underneath the truck lying on your back - not a lot of leverage in this scenario.

This particular tank was held in place by three brackets. The front bracket is a one piece "U" shaped bracket that was a bit difficult to install. I ended up putting a slight bend in the top of the bracket to ease installation. The middle and rear bracket are two-pieces, and used a key strap.

To get a precise test fit, I purchased four, 7/16-inch x 2-inch bolts, with standard nuts. The 1.5-inch bolts that Transfer Flow provided were long enough to secure the tank once it was positioned perfectly, but the longer bolts allowed us to secure the tank temporarily, and to ensure everything fit properly. The standard nuts made the test fit much easier as opposed to the lock type nuts provided in the kit.

The only complication I ran into was at the driver's side front camper tie down, which was mounted to the frame. The auxiliary tank was fairly close to the frame so there was not adequate clearance for the "C-clamp" style adapter. So I fabricated a different type of mount to secure the tie down point.

I raised the tank in place with my friend's help and secured it with all three straps. I used the longer bolts again and standard nuts to get the tank in position, then I replaced each bolt one at a time with the hardware from Transfer Flow, keeping the two floor jacks in place as a backup.

I spliced open the OEM vent line to the rear tank and installed the T- connector. The T-fitting had to be positioned so the fuel would drain into the main tank properly without creating a backfill situation. This was where the diagram provided by Transfer Flow was most helpful. Then I installed the tank shield on the inner side of the tank to protect it from the drivetrain. Then it was time for the filler neck and hoses. I went with a straight filler neck and I had to get a bit creative with the installation for the standard F350 dually bed that is on the truck, which was unusual for a F550, since the truck came as a cab and chassis from the factory. The pre-drilled holes did not line up quite right and there were clearance issues with the bed, so drilled larger holes that I could get to in order to adequately secure the filler neck.

After going over all the connections I reconnected the batteries. Next, I reinstalled the two fuses we removed earlier, and my friend and I held our breath and turned on the ignition. I waited for the electronic evaluation of our work; the status on the TRAX monitor indicated "Ok" and things looked good. The next stop was to fill the tank and check for leaks at the connections.

As an added bonus, the F550 rode better with a full fuel load. Mission accomplished.