Any way you go, increasing the size of the cooler should be accompanied by increasing the size of the pan as well to see noticeable degrees of cooling. Temperature drops as low as 20 or 30 degrees when towing are typical.

We spent a few hours at Diesel Tech in California to learn more about the upgrade and to follow along as David Briggs explained the process in detail. The owner of our test vehicle saw immediate temperature decreases thanks to this quick fix.

Here’s an overview of the installation on a 2002 F250 4WD that tows a large enclosed motorcycle trailer.

The DIY Plan
There are a few things that you should know before you begin the upgrade. The cooler from Ford does not come with any mounting hardware.

You don’t need a lift to perform the installation, but if you use jack stands, be sure they are secured in place and the vehicle is properly blocked.

As for tools, you will need a standard pair of pliers, 8mm and 7mm socket (for clamps), a Phillips head screwdriver, hose cutter, plumbers pipe thread sealant or tape, tie-straps, two 90-degree elbows (step-down 1/2 to 3/8), which can be purchased at any industrial supply shop.

You can use an impact on the bumper, and a quarter-inch impact works great for getting into the tight spots.

You will have to buy two long bolts for the lower cooler bracket, because the stock bolts are too short.

You will also have to purchase 1/2-inch oil lines into the new cooler. It’s best to buy more than you’ll need, and try to find fluid lines that don’t chafe.

There is no modification of the truck at all. This is a completely bolt-on upgrade. Plan on three to four hours of work if you’ve never done this installation before.