Within Napa Valley, the towns of St. Helena, Yountville, and Calistoga are best known for their award-winning whites and reds, from soil that has been cultivated for generations, but the art galleries up and down the valley floor that are filled with original oils, watercolors, and sculptures, also keep visitors returning to this charismatic destination.

For us, the trip began at the Calistoga RV and Campgrounds (Napa Valley Fairgrounds) just north of downtown. It was nothing fancy, that's for sure: just 72 RV sites at $18 per night mostly laid out on a square gravel lot adjacent to the local arena. Nearly barren of luxuries, the fairground's claim to fame is that it is within walking distance of a very good nine-hole golf course and downtown. Staying there is a convenient way to see the sights without much fuss.

The sites have full or partial hookups, and the area is clean and quiet. Dogs are welcome on leash, and the spaces are large enough to accommodate even Class A motorhomes or fifth wheels, although they are narrow. There's room to tent camp if you are inclined, but be sure to bring bug and tick spray, as we discovered. If you're in the mood for privacy, nearby Bothe State Park has limited sites available and dogs are welcome and hiking trails abundant.

In town, there are art galleries, fine restaurants, and kitschy shops, but a short drive will take you to the Old Faithful geyser. The geyser is a true wonder of the world, and if you have never seen a geyser shooting out of the ground and can't make it to Yellowstone it is a decent way of keeping the kids entertained.

Of all the art galleries in Calistoga, the must-see is Ca'Toga. The gallery is the vision of 72-year-old Italian-born artist Carlo Marchiori, a Renaissance-style painter, potter, and sculptor who lives in the area.

Marchiori's work is distinctive, even a little spirited by traditional Napa standards-nothing like the art you see elsewhere. If you look closely, you can see the web of wit he's spun around traditional motifs.

As luck would have it, the day we visited he was putting the final touches on floor-to-ceiling Venetian-style murals at the Dell Dotto winery tasting room in St. Helena. We watched as the maestro contemplated the massive scale of his latest project at Dell Dotto, craning to get perspective of his 18-foot figures that embodied the winemaking process of ancient Italy. Murals of this kind have been a Marchiori hallmark for decades. In fact, references to his work of Renaissance, baroque, and neoclassic design, and notably his whimsical trompe l'oeil, pop up everywhere in Calistoga.

"I've been here 20 years, and in that time Calistoga has become a beautiful destination for the traveler. We get four seasons with a little snow in the winter, but the spring and summer months are a good time to visit.

"My father expected me to be a bookkeeper, and I wanted to be an artist. I spent three years in art school in Italy and immigrated to Canada thereafter. I became a graphic artist. I did magazine, TV, and animation art and then produced a film short called The Drag for the Canadian Film Board, which was nominated for an Academy Award.